Wiwannihorn
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J / Steinadlerroute 5b (5a mandatory)
Franz-Xaver Leiggener, Bruno Pfaffen and Egon Feller 1976/1982. Renovated in 2018 by Renate and Roland Kernen, Steffi Irniger.
This is the classic route of the Wiwannihorn, characterised by varied, partly also somewhat exposed wall and slab climbing, well secured and often climbed. The tour should not be undertaken in bad weather conditions as rappelling isn’t easy in this route.
After the first three pitches, follow nice pitches in the 5th degree in the best rock and exposed ambience. After the 8th pitch, it becomes much easier again and you follow the partly exposed ridge for about 50 minutes to the summit. 4 – 5 hours for the climb.
Descent: Over the west ridge or southwest wall, or the normal route Trittji.
Equipment: 14 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
K / Wi vom Fass 6a (5b+ mandatory)
Renate and Roland Kernen 2019
10 pitches of beautiful climbing lines in the best-structured rock in the upper fifth and a few meters in the sixth degree of difficulty. Then follow the slightly exposed ridge to the summit. Highly recommended climbing tour. 4 – 5 hours for the climb.
Descent: Over the west ridge or southwest wall, or the normal route Trittji.
Equipment: 14 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
L / Verborgene Tänze 6b (5c+ mandatory)
Felicitas and Egon Feller 2013
This beautiful climbing line has been only discovered recently. Therefore it got the name which means in German: hidden dances. This is a term from the Upper Valais mythology.
The very varied climbing on the best rock in the fifth and sixth degree of difficulty offers interesting cracks, slabs and intersections and is one of the most beautiful ways to the Wiwannihorn. After climbing up the pitches follows a transition on the ridge to the summit for about 45 minutes.
Descent: climbing down over the west ridge or the normal route Trittji in the south wall. Rappelling on the route is not recommended. The rope can get caught while pulling, but it’s possible.
Equipment: 12 quick-draws and 60 m rope. The tour is also good with a 50 m rope. Only in one of the light pitches is it not enough, which is not a problem at this level of difficulty.
Danger note: Do not kick stones in the area of 2nd grade. Otherwise you endanger climbers below in the Steinadlerroute and Wi vom Fass.
N / Hotel Pfui 6c (6a+ obl.)
Lina Rufibach und Bruno Pfaffen 2021, opened from below
Exposed wall and slab climbing between the two classics Steinadler and Wii vom Fass. After the 9th pitch via Steinadler, continue over the ridge to the summit.
Marked at the start, also after the walking sections.
Material: 11 quickdraws, 50 m rope
Topo from the climbing guide Wiwanni 2022