Ostgrat 5b (4c obl.)
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Rebecca Bisig, Hans Z’Brun, Egon Feller 2004.
The east ridge offers a beautiful panoramic ascent to the Wiwannihorn. It is the longest climb on the Wiwannihorn with the 17 pitches. High above the Baltschieder Valley, it offers varied climbing and is very well equipped. In the beginning, there are some lichens, but the higher you get, the more beautiful the climbing becomes. It’s more a mountain hike and block climbing than an actual sport climbing route. The difficult pitches relate to some short individual points in the first pitches.
The big edelweiss bouquets and a small larch tree at 2985 m are breaking records. After the 8th pitch, don’t miss out on the crossing to the left to a surprisingly nice crack.
In early summer, the approach over the steep firn fields can be very tricky.
Descent: Over the west ridge or southwest wall, Trittji. Rappelling over the east ridge is not recommended, because the rope can get caught in the boulders when pulling the rope.
Time: 4 – 6 hours from the hut to the summit.
Equipment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope and alpine equipment depending on the conditions.
The big edelweiss bouquets and a small larch tree at 2985 m are breaking records. After the 8th pitch, don’t miss out on the crossing to the left to a surprisingly nice crack.
In early summer, the approach over the steep firn fields can be very tricky.
Descent: Over the west ridge or southwest wall, Trittji. Rappelling over the east ridge is not recommended, because the rope can get caught in the boulders when pulling the rope.
Time: 4 – 6 hours from the hut to the summit.
Equipment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope and alpine equipment depending on the conditions.
Topo from the climbing guide Wiwanni 2022
