Gross Augstkummenhorn
This post is also available in: Deutsch Français Italiano
Often visited climbing summit with varied routes. In early summer, the steep firn fields can be tricky to get to the access. Good footwear is highly recommended.
2 / Crossing the ridge Wiwanni – Augstkummenhorn 3+
Duration: approx. 2 hours
A / Männertreu? 5c (5a mandatory)
Esther Raschle, Josi Flurin 2001
This 5 pitch long beautiful slab climbing route is in the best rock, well equipped and recommended.
The route is often used as a rappelling slope for the descent from the Augstkummenhorn.
Descent: rappelling over the route, 5 x 25 m
Equipment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
B / Südwand Platte 6a (5b mandatory)
Peter Spiro, Egon Feller 1990
Varied slab and wall climbing. From the fourth pitch, there are two possible pitches.
Descent: from the first ridge tower it takes about 10 minutes to the rappelling point of the route Männertreu? Or further down there is the crossing to Augstkummen summit and Wiwannihorn
Equipment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
C / Im Licht und Schatten 6b (6a mandatory)
Felicitas and Egon Feller 2017
Exciting climb with tricky, exposed, final pitch. Very well secured.
Descent: Rappelling on the route is not recommended. The rope can get caught in the rocks. Therefore it is recommended to rappel over the route Männertreu? or Südwandplatte.
Equipment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
D / Silbermantel 5b + (5a mandatory)
Anita Wespi, Egon Feller 1997. Renovated by Renate and Roland Kernen, Stefan Irniger 2017.
Recommended, varied slab climbing with some crack-lines in a direct line to the summit. In the first pitch at 2800 meters above sea level, you can admire the second high-lying tree in Central Europe (it’s a small larch).
Descent: rappelling with double rope if possible. It is better, however, to descend over the Augstkummen ridge to the west ridge. Or over the route Männertreu? rappel: 5 x 25 m
Equipment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
E / Steinbock 6b (6a mandatory)
Amadee Schmidt, Egon Feller 1997
Slab and wall climbing in the best rock. In this route, good footwork is an advantage. Well secured.
Descent: Rappelling
Equipment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
F / Fliegenpilz 6b (6a mandatory)
Amadee Schmid, Ruedu Kellerhals, Egon Feller 1997
This route is a variant within the Steinbock route after the third pitch it lies on the right, a steep slab. Amazing slab and face climbing in the best rock. Well secured.
Descent: Rappelling over the route Steinbock
Equipment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
G / Steingizz 5a+ (5a mandatory)
Martin Heynen, Peter Tresch 2008
Varied slab and face climbing on good rock. The short pitches are ideal as an introduction to multi-pitch climbing. The route is well secured. Highly recommended as access to the Augstkummen ridge with a subsequent traverse.
Descent: Descent via the route or crossing the ridge.
Rating: a short crux point 5a. The rest is mostly in the 4th level of difficulty.
Equipment: 10 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
H / Spirito (di) Vino 5c+ (5b mandatory)
Mario Trapletti, Peter Stucky, Egon Feller 2019
After the second pitch of the route Steigizz, this route leads over a ledge directly to the right into a striking intersection. Followed up by beautiful enjoyable climbing pitches in the best rock, each 25 meters until you reach the ridge.
Descent: Rappelling on the nearby route Kristall or across the east ridge.
Equipment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
I / Frauenschuh 4b (Var. 6a)
Bruno Leiggener, Karin Aufdenblatten, Amadee Schmid, Egon Feller 1995
Very nice slab and face climbing in the best rock. After this route, many people extend their tour to the Augstkummen summits.
Descent: rappelling on the route is possible. For ridge climbers, however, it is easier to descend over the ridge in the direction to the Wiwannihorn and then climb or rappel down to the valley between Wiwannihorn and Augstkummenhorn.
Rating: 4b. In the fourth pitch, there is an alternative pitch on the left, that offers a steep slab with a small overhang in the difficulty level of 6a.
Equipment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope.
K / Kristall 5c (5a mandatory)
Rebecca Bisig, Egon Feller 2004
Very nice slab climbing in the best rock. The crux point in the 2nd pitch provides beautiful wall climbing.
Descent: rappelling on the route is possible. For ridge climbers, however, it is easier to descend over the ridge towards Wiwannihorn and then descend to the valley between Wiwannihorn and Augstkummenhorn or rappel.
Equipment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
Topo from the climbing guide Wiwanni 2022
