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Bru
Already many climbers noticed the huge granite face high above the Baltschieder valley. Roland Kernen, who had already developed various routes in the front of the Baltschieder valley, found together with Sandro Perren a first ideal line, through the impressive wall. They named it “Die Nebel von Bru” which means in English the fog of bru.
A second, very rewarding and somewhat less difficult route (Där Sickbozo) was achieved by Roland and his wife Renate in 2015.
Special: The wild, isolated Bru used to be an Ausserberg sheep alp. Climbing the wall you can find big Edelweiss bouquets, which is quite untypical for the crystalline rock landscape.
Drei Sagen Tour
Renate und Roland Kernen as well as Felicitas und Egon Feller.
This climbing tour involves 32 pitches and 1500 meters of climbing, plus the subsequent ridge climbing it is one of the longest climbing routes in Valais. From the Baltschieder valley to the Wiwannihorn, it’s about 1800 meters in altitude in a very scenic area.
Ideally, the route will be climbed in two days with an overnight stay at the Wiwannihut.
It’s the combination of three routes starting at the legendary Baltschieder valley to the Wiwannihorn;
Starting with the route ds Hibsch Meissji followed up by Sikbozo and the final route Verborgene Tänze.
Rating: 6b (6a mandatory) 32 pitches + ridge climbing
Equipment: 16 quick-draws, 50 meters double rope
Safeguarding: Very well equipped
Access: Approximately 2 hours. Hike along the historic water pipe at Niwärch into Baltschieder valley and continue to the entrance of the via Ferrata. Now about a hundred meters to the right is the access.
Attention! This route should only be approached in safe weather conditions. A weather change or insufficient climbing technique can be very serious, as a descent from Bru to the Baltschieder valley or over to the via Ferrata at about 2100m is not that easy to find. In early summer and during thunderstorms, there is a danger of rockfall.
O / Ds hibsch Meissji 6a (5c mandatory)
First ascent, Renate and Roland Kernen 2016.
The route leads with 9 pitches as access into the route Sickbozo. Stunning slab and face climbing. According to the name, there is a beautifully carved and structured rock. The name originated from a tale about the water pipe in the Baltschieder valley. After the last belay, you descend a few steps into the mighty rift and traverse over the blocks to the next belay. After the sixth pitch, you climb up about 70 meters in easy terrain.
Access: Approximately 2 hours. Over the historic water pipe at Niwärch at Baltschieder valley, you go to the entrance of the via Ferrata. From there about a hundred meters to the right you find the entrance.
Rating: 6a (5c mandatory) 8SL and easy climbing with walking sections.
Equipment: 16 quick-draws and a 50 meters rope
Safeguarding: Well equipped
Q / Där Sickbozo 5c+ (5c mandatory)
First ascent, Renate and Roland Kernen 2015.
Long, very varied climbing in a well-secured line. This route should only be approached in safe weather conditions. A weather change or insufficient climbing technique can be very serious, as a descent from into the Baltschiedervalley or over to the via Ferrata at about 2100m isn’t that easy to find. In early summer and during thunderstorms, there is a danger rockfall.
Ascent: Towards the east ridge of Wiwannihorn, then at the cross above the lower climbing garden, descent diagonally downwards, through the hollow traverse to the grass platform about 20 min.
Then rappel 7 times (45–50 meters each). When rappelling, keep to the right. Alternative access to the route is from the Baltschieder valley over the route, “Ds hibsch Meissji”
Rating: 6a + (5c mandatory) 400 climbing meters.
Safeguarding: Well secured belay with stainless material. There are practically no additional belay options.
Equipment: 50 meters double rope and 16 quick-draws, rappel equipment
P / Die Nebel von Bru 6c (6a+ obl.)
First ascent, Roland Kernen and Sandro Perren 2010.
The 11 pitches in a steep face and slab climbing, mostly at a rating of 6a to 6c is recommended only for experienced climbers. Roland Kernen and Sandro Perren did the routs first ascent while they installed and lead climbed the route. This route should only be approached in safe weather conditions. A weather change or insufficient climbing technique can be very serious, as a descent into the Baltschieder valley or over to the via Ferrata at about 2100m isn’t that easy to find. In early summer and during thunderstorms there is danger of rockfall.
Overall, the 11-pitch tour offers a great day of climbing in a wild environment.
Ascent: 25 minutes from the Wiwannihut along the trail towards the east ridge of Wiwannihorn and from there down to the first rappel belay where there is a summit book.
Then rappel 11 times over the route following the bolts. The rappel slope is visible. Only the seventh belay is slightly next to the route because the rope is easier to pull off from there. (See Topo) While rappelling on the route already gives you a good insight about the route and the belays. An alternative ascent possibility is to get there from the Baltschieder valley over the route Ds hibsch Meissji.
Rating: 6c (6a + mandatory) 430 climbing meters.
Safeguarding: Mostly very good belays with stainless material. There are practically no additional belay options.
Equipment: 50 meters double rope and 16 quick-draws, rappel equipment.
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Topo from the climbing guide Wiwanni 2022
